that run downhill and Atlantic salmon that leap up

This landscape, with waters that run downhill and Atlantic salmon that leap up, is home to pine marten and golden eagle, osprey and rutting red deer. Often, Cruachan – "conical hill" in Scots Gaelic and Argyll's highest mountain – is also the backdrop for hillwalkers wearing fluorescent waterproofs or mosquito repellent and mountain bikers bearing broad grins.